unstable country.â
âWell,â El said, âitâs not like weâre going to wander into the opium fields and start harvesting, if thatâs what you mean.â
Damn, there went all my plans.
âOf course thereâs that,â Louise said. âBut that is a bit dramatic. What I mean is that we have posted a travelerâs advisory for Australian citizens on a few areas up north where thereâs been some trouble. If you steer clear of them, you should be just fine.â
âUp north?â El asked with a twinge of anxiety. âWe were planning on going to Luang Prabang.â
âIâd give that a miss if I were you,â Louise said. âThe highway is too dangerous.â
âWhy?â
âThis actually hasnât come out in the press yet, but in the last week, thereâs been missile attacks on tourist buses by Hmong bandits.â
âWhat happened?â we gasped.
âWell, these rebels fire at the buses, yâknow, blowing them up, and then come and raid whatâs left for valuables.â
Apart from our lives, El and I didnât have anything of value with us. But how were these gun-crazy hill tribers supposed to know that? Strike bus travel. But we were still desperate to get out of Vientiane and into Luang Prabang.
âHow about along the river?â El asked. âCanât you take a boat up there?â
âYou can,â Louise nodded. âBut again, weâd advise against it.â
âWhat now?â I whined.
âFor a start, itâs the dry season and the river is incredibly shallow. The speedboats that travel up it wind up hitting mudbanks and crashing. There was an accident just a fortnight ago.â
âWhat about a slow boat?â
âI was getting to that. This is very much under wraps still, but there was an Australian citizen shot off the top of one of those slow boats only a few days ago.â
Jesus. And there I was thinking the worst thing that could happen in Laos was being forced to drink black coffee.
âThatâs a disgrace,â I said, shaking my head. âBut hey, what about a plane?â
El nodded at me and looked at Louise, who in turn was staring at us like we lunatics. âYou guys really want to get up there, eh?â she said.
âYeah, we really do,â I said. Five minutes ago, I hadnât known where I wanted to go. But now, despite, or maybe even because of, the warnings against it, I was chomping at the bit to get to Luang Prabang.
S ome say the glass is half empty, some say the glass is half full. I say, are you going to drink that?
âLisa Claymen
âWell,â Louise continued, âlet me give you some friendly advice. Donât fly in this country. Donât even go near an airport. Jesus,â she shook her head. âItâs totally off the record, but listen. Most of the planes in Laos are ancient Russian junk heaps. Theyâre supposedly maintained by the French but I wouldnât go within a bloody mile of them.â
We considered our options in silence. We could stay in Vientiane, bored senseless but safe, the able-bodied envy of every cripple in town. Or we could risk life and coveted limb on the airborne equivalent of the Lada for a chance to see the ârealâ Laos. Ennui versus a fiery death. It was a tough call, but my completely warped sense of logic kicked in and I had my decision. Weâd fly to Luang Prabang. At least if we died in a plane crash, we wouldnât be bored.
âI say we do it,â I told El, whose smile told me sheâd made the same decision. I hoped sheâd used a different system of reckoning, though.
âWell, I think youâre both nuts,â Louise tutted. âBut itâs your choice. Just fill these in,â she handed us our identification papers, âand letâs hope we donât need to use them.â
âWhat melodrama,â I said to El as we